El Chalten is a little town born in the early 1980s, located in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in Argentina. It is an isolated town where everything (food, services) is a little more expensive than in bigger cities in Patagonia such as El Calafate or Río Gallegos.  But fortunately you can find almost everything there. This town is where you start the hikes to the view points, camping sites of the Park  and of course where climbers from all over the world start their journeys to climb one of the dozens of routes in the Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy cords. Most of the people visit the “Laguna de los tres” which is the lagoon located in the base of the glacier below the Fitz Roy cord.  Some people make a full day hike which means that they leave El Chalten very early in the morning, hike for 4-6 hours to the lagoon and 4-6 hours back to the town.  Some others take their backpacks, tents and sleeping bags, and spend a few days,  to reach the “Poincenot” camping site (2 hours), spend the night there and the next day hike to the lagoon, back to the camp and they either continue hiking to the Cerro Torre camping site or back to El Chalten. All these are good options to see the amazing Fitz Roy.  But if you are a little more adventurous, you can try to reach the “paso superior” ice camping, where climbers, either in tents or snow caves, wait days or weeks for good weather conditions to climb the selected route. Hiking to Paso superior is is an experience itself, the view is amazing, the feeling is irreplaceable.  From this spot you see the magnitude of  the granite walls because you are only about a mile away from the actual base of the peaks.  If you are even more intrepid, you can go further and spend the night up there in a snow cave, hike towards the base of the peaks.  Highly recommended to experience a little bit what is a climber’s life like.   Snow cave for two in Paso Superior, Fitz Roy. To get to this place you need to be in an acceptable physical condition and you absolutely need professional assistance from a mountain guide or an experienced mountaineer, because you have to walk in a glacier (with crevasses, ice, snow, etc) for a few hours and a you have to climb a short small on rock that requires safety instructions, guidance  and appropriate gear.  Contact us if you need more info on how to get to “paso superior”

Snow hiking in the base of Fitz Roy

The team composed by Nico Favresse (Belgium), Sean Villanueva (Belgium) and Ben Ditto (USA), reached the summit of the Paine Central Tower on Torres del Paine, Chile. This happened at the beginning of this month (February 2009) while  I was there doing some mild hiking in comparisson. When I finished the hike from Bader valley towards the base of Torre Central with a couple of friends, we saw a group of climbers, we chatted for a while, I remembered that one of them was Nico, we just wish them good luck on their climb to the South African Route.  And now, it turned out that their names are in all the climbing websites! What is special about this climb? That this is the first free ascent of the east face of the Central Tower.  And it is only the third time that that route is repeated ever. The first ascent was in 1974 (by South Africans), the second in 2004 by another South African team. They spent 13 days in the wall, climbing, hauling, singing, playing music, etc. in “an endless dihedral of about 1200 meters” with “some spectacular pitches up there on amazing granite with incredible moves!”.  But for me, the most important thing they did was to enjoy the wall, enjoy the Patagonian conditions, and enjoy the company of those friends that you can only make when you climb, those to whom you literally trust your life. Check some of their stories, pictures and videos on the expedition blog, I highly recommend it! It is so much fun.

Panoramic view from the Bader valley in Torres del Paine, Chile Being in Patagonia was one of my lifetime dreams.  I clearly remember once that I was watching in TV a documentary of Torres del Paine (Chile), and thought that I should visit that place.  Later, when I started climbing, I heard stories of climbers in Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, I was specially attracted by those stories about strong winds that can pull you out from the wall, or that the rope goes up instead of going down when you throw it for rappelling.  So many things I read and I heard, including of course those videos of Ermanno Salvaterra, an italian man that is in love with Patagonia and Cerro Torre.  All those things together made me think that I had to be there, someday. And so, that day arrived, on December 27th, 2008 I was flying to Santiago de Chile, took long bus rides for days and finally arrived to Patagonia, the house of some of the most beautiful mountains and landscapes of the world (at least for me).  I also had the chance to hike up there, to the base of some of these wonderful peaks.  Now, I am back in Ecuador, with the strong feeling that I will soon be back to Patagonia, and thinking that any person that likes outdoors and nature should go there, at least once.  If you are one of those, you will absolutely fall in love with Patagonia. During the next few weeks I will share with you some of my experiences in this part of the world, information about traveling and the highlights of a couple of cities.  Enjoy them.

Fitz Roy Cord